After a couple of crazy nights partying in Bangkok I travelled 6 hours Northeast to a town called Khon Kaen, to visit the lovely Noelani (a friend of a friend from work). The bus journey was ‘interesting’! The air con stopped working about an hour in and Thai pop music blared from the speakers above every seat constantly. Let’s just say I was very relieved when I finally arrived  (and very sweaty).

Noelani has been living in Khon Kaen for the last 2 months, working for a development organisation called the Research Group on Wellbeing and Sustainable Development (WeSD). Today I was lucky enough to visit their office, which is based at the large University in the city. They are a relatively new organisation, funded by the University and they are doing amazing work promoting, supporting and researching sustainable development and wellbeing in three main rural areas of Thailand. Part of their aim is to raise awareness among local people to help combat the destruction of natural resources and the environment, and the widening inequalities between rural and urban areas, caused by rapid economic growth. I was so inspired by the whole team and I really believe that this community led approach to development works. Check out their website here (mainly in Thai at the moment, but a work in progress!) http://www.wesd.net/ They are currently looking for volunteers out here in Thailand so if anyone is interested, get in touch!

Thai farmer cultivating rice in Northeast Thailand

After a lovely lunch with the team members, Noelani and I headed into the city of Khon Kaen for some sightseeing. The Northeast of Thailand, and the Khon Kaen region in particular is very un-populated by tourists. The locals look at you in amazement as you walk down the street and those who can speak a bit of English are delighted to chat to you and ask lots of questions. This is ‘real’ Thailand and I’m so glad I get to experience it in contrast to the backpacker mecca of Khao San Road. Here local traditions are adhered to; the ‘wai’ (2 hands together in a prayer – like action) replaces the wave, shoulders and knees must be covered and feet should be kept on the floor when sitting. We visited an amazing temple, right by lake Bueng Kaen Nakhon. As we walked in, there were a class of young primary school age children all kneeled in prayer before the ornate gold leaf plated Buddha. The temples are breathtaking and have to be seen to be believed. It is customary to bring an offering to the Buddha, so before going in we purchased some fragrant lillies from a stall outside to lay before the shrine. All the school children waved at us as we left and all were very keen to practice their English greetings. I was amazed by the serenity inside the temple and I felt so calm and peaceful.

We then went for dinner at an ‘all you can eat’ BBQ. This place was amazing, you basically choose all your meats, fish, seafood, vegetables and noodles and cook them yourself on a hot plate over water at your table. The meats and fish cook on the top, and the vegetables and noodles are put into the surrounding water, creating an amazing thai broth. For desert were a selection of fresh Thai fruits, quiet alien to me, including Dragon Fruit and gree Papaya. As we were eating, I looked out across the street and was amazed to see a large black elephant sauntering towards us, being ridden by a young Thai. This was my first elephant sighting so I was very excited and jumped at the chance to feed him/her for 10 baht. I held the fruit in my hand rather cautiously, thinking its huge mouth might take my hand too!

Feeding the elephant!

Eventually we arrived back home, worn out from sensory overload. Blocking our way across the uncompleted road that leads to the apartment was a huge bull with massive horns. As we sneaked passed, being careful not to distrurb him, Noelani smiled and said ‘This is Thailand!’

Noelani giving training to the WeSD team